July 15, 2019

A "catch-all" style with varied origins, streetwear has gone beyond the trend stage to become a mainstream.

From suburban subcultures to fashionable little ones, this is a style that seduces as much as it questions. Evolutive, he becomes immersed in his environment, making his interpretations almost infinite.

Today, we will look at its evolution ... and get inspired!

THE LITTLE HISTORY OF STREETWEAR ...

STREETWEAR : ORIGINS OF THE STREET

Nowadays dubbed by the whole fashion sphere, streetwear has not always been unanimous. As often, fashion adapts to society and the times in which it evolves. Let's look at how ...

A STYLE BORN IN THE 80'S ...

Public Enenmy

Streetwear has its origins in the convergence of several distinct styles. There are reminiscences of the jazz era, references to Californian surfers, skateboarding and, above all, hip-hop culture.

Indeed, the 80s are marked by the appearance of this new musical genre, carried by the youth of the ghettos and "suburbs" of New York. This decade sees a new kind of boys-band flourish, far from the Beatles and their ideal son-in-law style. Among them: Public Enemy, NWA or Run-DMC, who become the standard bearers of an alternative culture.

jamel-shabazz-streetwear

In order to assert their identity, they invent a new dress style breaking the codes of a society still puritanical. It is also about adapting the clothing to the movement and the practice of breakdance. They adopt wide trousers and sportswear sets, wear sneakers and XXL t-shirts, wear caps, flashy jewelry and banish the wearing of sweatshirts and hoodies.

... LEGITIMATE IN THE 2000S

At the base, streetwear is thus a form of expression of rather popular subcultures. If the movement was born in the 80s, it becomes institutionalized really from the mid-90s. Music plays a vital role: rap and RnB inspire the younger generations, imposing themselves durably in the artistic landscape.

Personalities emerge from disadvantaged minorities, integrating their cultural heritage into their stylistic codes. Becoming references beyond the simple musical universe, they contribute to the creation of a model. Moreover, they have paved the way for a new conception of fashion, mixing street influence and luxury ...

snoop-dog-rihanna

STREETWEAR AND FASHION

DIFFICULT BEGINNINGS

Apart from a few punctual examples, like Marithé + François Girbaud and their baggy, the "fashion" has long remained impervious to streetwear ...

It is now far, the time when Lacoste was trying to stem a new phenomenon: the appropriation of his clothes by young people from French suburbs. Determined to "fight back", the brand will be mired in a struggle to get out of the depreciative image of city rappers.

ARSENIK-lacoste

Yet, for his fall / winter 2018-2019 collection, the models paraded on a music of hip-hop group Wu-Tang Clan, bobs screwed on their heads, dressed in jackets adorned with crocodile and fleece joggings.

How to explain this turnaround?

BIRTH OF "STREETWEAR COUTURE"

A new generation of creators emerged, raised in the 80s - with all the references that this implies. Names such as Ricardo Tisci (Givenchy), Kim Jones (Louis Vuitton), Virgil Abloh (Off-White), Stephane Ashpool (Pigalle) or Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga then CLOTHES) and propose a unique idea of style.

Houses are jostled, sewing flirts with the street.

defile-pigalle-printemps-ete-2017

This approach also responds to a growing need of brands - luxury, in particular - to seduce a youth who is no longer recognized in a cloakroom too classic, renewing itself little. This approach is therefore a new way to woo a connected and newbie customer.

It is this same strategy that has led major labels to collaborate with influential personalities who have become benchmarks in streetwear. Today, Pharell Williams parades for Chanel, Rihanna became Dior muse, Nekfeu signs a collab 'at Agnès B. and Smith children squat the first rank of Vuitton fashion shows.

smith-vuitton-pharell-chanel

A frenzied outbidding, in which all these Houses are engaged by offering a facelift in passing. A more "cool" identity, without which they would seem outdated.

Some celebrities, with "DNA street", have also started on their own in the clothing. Examples include the Yeezy label, launched by Kanye West, Unküt by Booba or, more recently, the Avnier brand created by Orelsan.

kanye-west-adidas

STREETWEAR AND COLLABORATIONS

In recent years, a new phenomenon has seized the world of fashion: collaborations. The concept is simple: to bring together two entities with very distinct identities at first sight, to attract the interest of larger populations, thanks to limited edition pieces.

Rarity is a creature of desire and that, the brands have understood it well. The buyer is motivated by exclusivity, sometimes turning into a real collector. This practice is even more common in streetwear, where urban brands are associated with luxurious claws. The effect is immediate, these limited collections snapped up at prohibitive prices. Not to mention resale prices between individuals!

supreme-louis-vuitton-collab

While some pieces may be worth it - from a strictly stylistic point of view, at least - it must be kept in mind that marketing often remains the main element of these collabs. Some are quite improbable, like the next IKEA x Off-White.

THE STREETWEAR: MARKER OF A GENERATION?

 More than any other style, streetwear transcends social classes.

It echoes deeper societal changes. To begin with, the world of work has changed: there is less question of conformity, individuality and the right to express oneself are more and more put forward.

The tie suit is no longer always of rigor.. This norm, associated with the conception of masculine power, is becoming rarer, even in the political sphere.

These changes are reflected in the way men wear clothes. We favor comfort and practicality, we claim more references and we indulge in originality.

HOW TO ADOPT THE STREETWEAR STYLE?

It is sometimes difficult to navigate, as there are many possibilities with this style. No worries, we give you all our tips to become a streetwear pro!

THE TEN COMMANDMENTS OF STREETWEAR

  • Be careful not to overdo it. If streetwear allows more freedom than other styles - tailoring, to name just one - be sure to maintain some consistency.
  • Avoid the overflow of creators. This is an objection that is often heard among purists: "Fashion designers devalue, disguise the original streetwear wardrobe, to disguise people who have no affinity with its history".
  • Turn to the vintage. For those looking for more authenticity, the vintage, which is used in vintage clothes for example, can be a real gold mine. Attention, "it's not because it's vintage that it's beautiful".
  • To dare the DIY. At first, the streetwear was a style of "doing well". We recovered, we recycled, we hijacked. The "Do It Yourself" can be a way of making it your own by giving free rein to your creativity.
  • Start with small touches. We start by replacing a pair of derby with sneakers, we accessorize ... Do not trade the suit against a Lacoste set, overnight.
  • Adopt beautiful sneakers, true streetwear base. The plurality of existing brands and models leave you with a varied choice. If I advise you to buy basics (the eternal white sneakers) at first, you can then move on more original pieces.
  • Mix styles. Always in the idea of composing a silhouette that remains coherent and aesthetic, do not hesitate to mix street influences with other more classic: associations jogpant / overcoat, mackintosh / hoodie, blazer / sneakers, even if they do not seem not necessarily obvious, work very well.
  • Think about layering. Streetwear is a style that is composed by feeling, combining pieces of different colors, textures and volumes. Mastering the layering in your outfits allows this particular alchemy.

streetwear layering

  • Master the volumes. The oversized is part of the streetwear DNA. Far from the hip-hop singers' extra-large T-shirts, oversized coats / jackets are now being worn, which add to the silhouette. Wide pants are also back.
  • Have some references. You do not have to be a fan of champion Tony Alva, or lover of Lil Uzi Vert's songs, to adopt a streetwear style. That said, keep in mind that it is a style full of history and claims that, in a way, is donned along with the clothes associated with it.

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STREETWEAR : THE FINAL WORD...

An iconic style of sub-cultures from the 80s to the 90s, streetwear has lost the subversive aspect of its beginnings. Popularized, it is now established as a reference in terms of clothing, both aesthetics and design as the values ​​it conveys.

As a result of its history, there are a thousand and one ways to approach this style. More than a trend, it is today a current in the background, in which everyone can draw to own it.


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